Lobsters, now considered a luxurious delicacy enjoyed by gourmands worldwide, were once regarded as the food of the poor and even despised by many. This dramatic shift in perception over the centuries is a fascinating tale of culinary evolution influenced by social and economic changes.

A young boy posting with two enormous lobsters. Date unknown.
Humble Beginnings
In the early days of American colonial history, lobsters were incredibly abundant along the New England coastline. So plentiful were these crustaceans that they would wash up on the shores in heaps, sometimes several feet deep. For the colonists and the Native Americans, lobsters were a readily available source of protein. However, their abundance led to their association with poverty and desperation.

Dougal Doucette holds up the first large lobster of the season, Miminegash, Prince Edward Island. Via Canada Library and Archives.
Lobsters were primarily used as fertilizer in fields and bait for fishing. They were a staple for the lower classes, prisoners, and servants.
Contracts for indentured servants often stipulated that they would not be fed lobster more than a few times a week to prevent complaints about being subjected to such a lowly food. The crustacean’s reputation was so poor that it was even referred to as the “cockroach of the sea.”

Lobster claws being cracked, 1979. Via Library of Congress.
A Change in Perception
The transformation in the lobster’s reputation began in the mid-19th century with the advent of the canning industry. Lobster meat was canned and shipped to inland areas where it was less familiar. Gradually, as people in other regions were introduced to this novel seafood, its popularity started to grow.

Lobster shack in Maine, 1980. Via Library of Congress.
The real turning point came with the rise of the American railway system. Railroads began to promote lobster as an exotic dish to passengers. People traveling by train were served lobster as a special meal, which helped elevate its status from common fare to something more desirable. This exposure led to an increased demand for lobster, particularly among the middle and upper classes.
Culinary Renaissance
By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, lobsters had made their way into the kitchens of upscale restaurants in major cities. Chefs began to experiment with various ways of preparing and presenting lobster, further enhancing its appeal. The introduction of fine dining and gourmet cuisine cemented the lobster’s status as a luxury item.
During this period, lobster prices began to rise, making it less accessible to the working class. The once-despised crustacean had successfully shed its image as pauper’s food and was now considered a delicacy, synonymous with wealth and sophistication. The transformation was so complete that by the mid-20th century, lobster had become a staple at high-end restaurants and a popular choice for special occasions.

Photo by David Todd McCarty / Unsplash
Modern Day Delicacy
Today, lobster is synonymous with fine dining and indulgence. It is a centerpiece in gourmet dishes worldwide, from lobster bisque to lobster rolls, and is often associated with opulence and celebration. The crustacean’s journey from the sea to the table, and from poverty to luxury, is a testament to how societal values and economic factors can dramatically alter the perception of food.
In recent years, however, there has been a push towards sustainable seafood practices due to concerns over lobster overfishing and environmental impact. This new awareness is shaping the future of lobster consumption, ensuring that this once lowly crustacean remains a delicacy for generations to come.

A lobster dinner in Augusta, circa 1900. Collections of Maine Historical Society, courtesy of VintageMaineImages.com
The story of the lobster is a remarkable example of how perceptions of food can change dramatically over time. What was once seen as a symbol of poverty has become a symbol of luxury and fine dining. As we continue to navigate the complexities of food culture and sustainability, the lobster’s journey offers valuable insights into the ever-evolving relationship between society and what we eat.
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